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Dublin Bars

Pubs in Dublin fall into three broad categories: Trendy Bars, often vast and/or themed, the watering holes of predominantly young executives; Traditional Pubs - those which have been around since Victorian times or before and are mostly mentioned in Joyce (or those that pretend to that status with modern pseudo-fittings) - and Locals. To these we might add two sub-classes: pubs which operate mainly as late-night bars or nightclubs and hotel bars, which may belong in any of the three classes above.

Many of the trendiest places are run by a few large groups, such as the Capital Bars. Their flagship, Café en Seine is especially nice, and a good place for lunch. Expect to pay around 5 euro for a pint of lager though. The new Market Bar on Fade Street is worth a try too, but the best new bar in Dublin to my mind is the wonderful Bank on Dame Street, a loving restoration of the former premises of the Belfast Bank. On the north side of the river, try K3 or GUBU, or wander down to the pubs around the new docklands at the IFSC.

Around Temple Bar try the Turks Head, The Front Lounge, Thomas Reads, or The Porter House (microbrewery). These are all at the Parliament St end. The Temple Bar pub, while unashamedly promoting tourist kitsch, has the best beer garden in the city (i.e. you can smoke) and excellent Irish musicians.

Traditional pubs worth a look (use these if you're on Guinness):

K3 have a mock one on Abbey St called Robert Kielys opposite M&S (yes, we have them too!)
Mulligans (near the river)
The Palace (at the start of Temple Bar)
Hartigan's (A traditional student pub on Leeson St, just off Stephens Green)
The Dawson Lounge is Dublin's smallest pub. It's a few doors down from Cafe en Seine opposite the Mansion House. Look for the sign saying "Doran's".
McDaid's (off Grafton St)
Conways, Parnell St (round the corner from the Royal Dub).
Ryans, Parkgate St. Bit of a journey but worth it.
Neary's, Kehoe's (both off Grafton St)
Brogan's (Dame St)

You won't get many locals in Dublin city centre - they naturally occur more in the residential areas of the suburbs - but the closest you'll get in atmosphere is Grogan's, opposite the Powerscourt Centre on Sth William Street. It's a haven for artists and writers, playing much the role that McDaids and The Palace played in the 1930s. It's the kind of pub that still thinks a toasted sandwich and packet soup is adequate fare at lunchtime, but all the better for that.

For a real Dublin local though, be prepared to go outside the limits a little. Head for Thomas Street and the Liberties and try some of the pubs there: a bit on the rough side, and if you've got an English accent be prepared to declare your undying sympathy for the republican cause, but the genuine article.

If you're fortunate enough to be staying in The Ashling Hotel or Chief O'Neills, then be sure to try the many pubs around Stoneybatter, Queen Street and Church Street. This urban suburbia has many fine examples of the authentic Dubliners' local.

Drinking in Dublin

Smoking laws, licensing hours, kids and happy hours: we've assembled the basic Rules of the Road for drinking safely in Dublin.